The Haciendas in Tierra del Fuego. Posted 9/2013 and restored 8/2014.

 

The Tierra del Fuego is at the southern tip of South America.  The name originated back in 1520 when Magallanes discovered the channel that bears his name.  He eHe saw numerous fires in the shoreline that the Indians lighted to attract them to land. The name means Land of Fire in English. This narrative addresses the Chilean part of the big island that is shared with Argentina.  About the images; most are processed using HDR and others were converted to black and white.

 

 Sheep ranching still is the dominant industry but the heydays were between the 1880’s up to the 1920’s; it is said that around 1914 there were ¾ of a million sheep in the island. The wealth generated from these haciendas can be observed by the extent of the buildings in the haciendas but mostly by the fabulous homes that the owners built in Punta Arenas. The Menendez residence is an example of one of the many mansions there (I previously posted a blog regarding it that can be found by scrolling down and searching for previous blogs).

 

The first hacienda that one encounters driving to the Tierra del Fuego by road from Punta Arenas is San Gregorio that was founded by Menendez in 1878 and later expanded to more than 200,000 acres.  The major complex of buildings is dissected by CH-255 highway that parallels the Straits of Magellan.  Most of the buildings are in a stage of neglect but some are still in use. Two of the buildings were full of sheep skins that seemed abandoned and left to rot. 

 

There is graffiti in some of the walls as well as vandalism scars.    Chile does not seem to be concern with its past other than erecting a sign declaring the site to be part of the national patrimony; at the pace of destruction due to the extreme weather and human action,  not much these historical gems will be left in 20 years. 

 

In the shoreline of the hacienda there are two ship wrecks; one is the Amadeo that was owned by Menendez.  It is maiden trip to Punta Arenas it brought bricks from Uruguay that was used to build the Menendez Mansion.  It was not really wrecked but abandoned after about 50 years of service.  In another half century all may be left would be the bronze propeller and old photos.

 

After arriving at Punta Delgada, one waits for the ferry to cross the Straits of Magellans in an area called the “Primera Angostura”; here is where Magellans entered into the Straits in 1520 from the Atlantic Ocean.  After arriving at the big island, one is welcome with pampas that extends as far as the eye can reach.  .  This area is next to the border of Chile and Argentina and it obviously demonstrated at the Faro Espiritu Santo, where military outposts from both country face each other. The shoreline is spectacular at Punta Catalina Beach at susnset.

 

Proceding south down Rt. Y-71 one arrives at the Hacienda Onaisin.  It is the original estancia Josefina founded in 1883 and the first in the Tierra del Fuego. It is situated in a windswept plateau  as seen by the beaten trees.  There is a magnificent manor house that long abandoned still preserve the architecture of better days.

 

There are several structures in this hacienda but the one that I found more interesting was the clinic with a complex roof arrangement.  The interior I colorful and in a stage of gracious abandonment, what a shame…history fading.

Not far down the road is the “Cementerio Ingles” where the earlier english colonizers were buried. Some of those here were killed by the indians.  A sad charpter of the history of  Tierra del Fuego is that the introduction of the sheep led to the elimination of the indians but that is another story.  What a barren place to spend Eternity.

 

Gold was discovered there in the river beds in 1879 that caused a great influx of immigrants.  The rush did not last long and by 1909 the gold was exhausted.  Below is one of the “gradas’ used to mine the gold.  This particular mechanical dredge arrived from England in 1904 and operated until 1910.

 

Father south the Estancia Vicuna established in 1915 was the last one that I found with architectural merit to photograph.   The corner towers gave it a special attraction; as the others is also abandoned.  And this is the end of this blog; the next is further south in the mountains where I encountered extreme winter conditions.  Stay tuned.

Punta Arenas, Again!

 

There are some places that keep me going back, first time here in 2004 then 2010, 2011 and again in 2012.  It is as a city frozen in time; it started as a penal colony just as Ushuaia en Argentina. Back then British influence was dominant in South America and both colonies were modeled after the penal one in Port Arthur in Tasmania; it was a way to colonize to the isolated southernmost regions of the world. 

 This city was booming back in the XIX century when all seagoing traffic from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast of the USA went via the Straits of Magellan’s.  When gold was discovered in California, this was the easiest away to get there.  It was a coaling station so ships have to stop there for fueling bringing business to the local economy.   The opening of the Panama Canal changed all that.  

 

During 1890-1940, the area was the largest exporting of sheep and wool in the region; giving rise to large fortunes as those of the Menendez and Braun families.  They controlled vast territories both in Chile and Argentina.  As always, national pride between the countries put in dispute as to who is the southernmost city in the world, so Ushuaia and Punta Arenas are in competition.  I will settle this by saying that the former is the southernmost while the latter is the largest southernmost city.

 

Punta Arenas has the honor of being the city with the largest exposure to Ultraviolet light as part of the daily weather report the radiation index is posted.  I enjoy walking the streets and I will venture that there are more murals and graffiti here that any other city I have visited.  It may have to do with been the southernmost city and  the ozone hole that exposed its artists to high doses of ultraviolet light; causing them to see colors that have to be expressed in their neighbor’s walls.

 

It is not only paintings but there are also local sculptors at work mostly using metals.  Some are very original as the trashcan made out metal parts and the hand in the wall supporting a flag pole. The more you walk, the more you appreciate the local talents.

 

There are lots of street dogs and they are mostly friendly ones.  One morning, while standing in front of the hotel Plaza at the traffic light facing the square, I saw 2 mutts crossing the street with the pedestrian light green; they got across as the light changed.  There was another dog behind them that began to cross with the Do Not Walk sign on, the two dogs that have crossed started barking at the third dog crossing the street which turned around and went to the sidewalk…Believed or NOT?  And they are always looking where they can check previous visitors and leave their business calls.

 

The cemetery has several large mausoleums from the old potentates of which the Menendez-Braun family are the most prominent. And there is the statue of the Indio Desconocido covered with flowers and the walls behind with testimonies plaques of the miracles that he had granted.  In the beginning of the XX century there was a great immigration of people from the Balkans that were escaping the wars there.  Some of these families established here with great success as represented by the triangular mausoleum below.

 

A section of the cemetery has a complex of multistoried sepulchers, the most extensive I had seen; not even the one in el El Retiro cemetery in Buenos Aires can match its size.  Another peculiar thing is the way that the trees are trimmed; they look like they are fertilized with Viagra.

 

I noticed a revival of the city in 2010 when la Avenida Costanera was being finished; this year it is booming with new construction both industrial and commercial. By 2011, there were windmills harnessing electricity from the winds. I attribute this growth to the discovery of coal. Nor far from the city they are opening a coal mine which along with the damage to the environment, will brings jobs and wealth. 

 

This is a city I could live on; still a slow pace with nice cool summers. I may have a different opinion if I would visit there in the winter.  This year the city was still undergoing repairs both of the streets and historical buildings.  They just recently suffered large mud floods.  But the colors are still there.

Punta Arenas, Chile

I have visited many cities but this one has a particular appeal.  It brings memories of the cities where I grew up back in the mid 50's.  Since my first visit in 2004, the sleepy town with a faded golden age, is flourishing again, yet preserving its XIX and early XX century's charms.  It has the distinction to be the largest city affected by the "ozone hole" allowing ultraviolet light to pass thru the atmosphere causing high incidence of skin cancers and cataracts.

Punta Arenas as her sister Ushuaia, in Argentina have a similar origin as penal colonies back in the early 1800's.  Both cities outgrew that origin and became outpost for immigrants for the development of Patagonia.  

 

Fabulous fortunes emerged and among the most prominent, are those of the Braun and the Menendez families, whose holdings extended both through Argentina and Chile. The source of the wealth created were wool, minerals and lumber. Images of the Menendez/Braun Chateau are above showing the luxuries available to the lucky residents.

The City served as the point of departures of various explorers of Patagonia such as Lady Florence Dixie, whose diary (book Across Patagonia, 1880) described the old ways and visit to the Needles of Cleopatra.  She was probably the first European who described this geological formation presently known as the Horns of the Devil in Torres del Paine National Park.

The opening of the Canal of Panama was a blow to the economy of Punta Arena since prior to the canal, all shipping lanes between the eastern and western ports of the USA had to navigate to the Straits of Mallegans.  The city was strategically located and served as source to resupply and repair the ships navigating these treacherous waters, the biggest Chilean shipyard still survives here.

The Magellan's Straits has the notoriety of having one of the largest numbers of shipwrecks among the oceanic routes. As a consequence, a major ship building and repair industry emerged here that is still vibrant today.

Walking along the streets, one encounters colorful houses, graffiti, gardens, monuments and murals in such abundance and exotic colors, that I venture to say, are not found anywhere else. You be the judge.

No matter where you go, you are been watched by curious eyes out of windows or self-made peep holes in doors.  Dogs are numerous transients that along with pedestrians seem to share the streets as well as local transport.  I was amazed to be in a local bus and see one board it without objections by the driver or the requirement of a fare.  

The island of Magdalena is easily accessible via daily tours available at various tourist offices.  It is the home of one of the largest Magellan penguins in South America.  It is also the home of one of the many abandoned lighthouses along the Patagonian coast.

Patagonia is finally being discovered by global tourism with the resulting commercial development resulting in spoiling those natural attractions that brings the people in the first place.  No better example that what is happening in Calafate and Perito Moreno in Argentina.  So far, Punta Arenas and Torres del Paine in Chile, has escaped that massive development but is coming.   Another book of interest describing the area around Ushuaia is that of E. Lucas Bridges, The Uttermost Part of the Earth.