Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Christmas in Louisville

 I was surprised to be welcomed by a beefeater at the Frazier Museum downtown Louisville. Here the history depicting the evolution of weapons and warfare throughout the ages is presented in the chronological sequence but ends with a display with old cars and dresses from the “gilded age.”  There are dioramas of some famous historical battles such as the battle of Culloden.  It also offers impersonation of historical people and the day I was there Annie Oakley, a famous sharpshooter of the late XIX century who performed with Buffalo Bill’s Circus was featured.

 Old Louisville is a neighborhood that was developed in the in the grounds where the 1883 Southern Exposition took place. After the closure and removal of the buildings of the exposition the land was sold and the Belgravia and St. James Courts developed.  Most of the mansions have survived and among the most prominent is the Conrad-Caldwell House located at 1402 St. James Court, also known as Louisville Castle. It included electrical and internal plumbing systems, the latest innovations of the era.  One interesting item was the design of the lamps in places such as the living and dining rooms were designed both with electrical and gas supplies in case on failed.  The mansion is furnished with items of the age and one in particular attracted my attention—the Baby Daisy Vacuum Cleaner.  It was man-powered and required two persons to operate. It came also as an electric powered version but appears that former unit was more popular.  It was invented in France but mostly fabricated in England. Behind the Baby Daisy there are other dust removal artifacts such as the carpet beater resting against the corner.  I have visited many of these mansions but this one is the only one that will deserve a second visit.

 The Pink House at 1473 St. James Court is the second most appealing to me, not just because of its color but because of it was built as a casino and later used by the Women’s Temperance Union …if the walls could talk. It has the most beautiful door.

 There are other homes of varied styles in the Old town trying to imitate those of the original Belgravia and St. James neighborhoods in London, England.  The mansion below located at 1424 St James St. is in the Venetian gothic style and those who have visited the real Venice in Italy, will recognize the style except for the colors.  The home at 424 Belgravia Court has an interesting double set of stairs. By the way, when I arrived in Louisville, I went to the Old Louisville Chamber of Commerce at 1217 South and 4th Street to look for guides and it was closed…the building was empty and no directions as to where it was moved to.

 A visit to Louisville is not complete unless one crosses the river and visit Clarksville.  Here at the “Falls of the Ohio” Meriwether Lewis met William Clark before commencing their famous expedition west after Louisiana Purchase by Thomas Jefferson from Napoleon in 1803; the greatest real estate deal in history.  Interestingly Roger Clark a Revolutionary War hero and the founder of Louisville was the father of William Clark. There is a river drive that begins where the monument to the explorers is located and driving up river there is the walking bridge and an old house that now operates as an ice cream shop.  It was closed because who wants ice creams outdoor in the winter…it was already freezing. Another point of interest at the end of the road is Steamboat Museum.

 Back in Louisville driving around saw the Goose Creek Dinner, I cannot pass one; they are a welcome relief from the chain eateries.  The country style meal was excellent and the prices…a travel back in time when a buck was worth a dollar. And as bonus, I found this graffiti in the wall of the garage next door. So with this blog I finish 2014.  Next for 2015, a return to the wild places…stay tuned.

Saturday, December 20, 2014

Williamsburg is Best in Fall and Winter

 I first set foot in Williamsburg 46 years ago and have returned there often, just to walk around or photograph.  There is no other place in the USA where preservation has tried to keep the place as it once looked to Jefferson, Washington, Lafayette and other contemporaries.  Or captured the spirit of the age so well.  I believe it is a bit idealized since everything is so perfectly kept.  Perhaps the aroma of the manure of the horses carrying the tourists around, brings back a touch of reality as to how the olden days really were.

 Williamsburg is both a college and a tourist town.  You can tell the college kids because they will be jogging, riding bicycles or working as interpreters for Colonial Williamsburg…not all of them…just the young ones. The Gen-X tourists are all pushing baby strollers or yelling at kids.  Those of the golden age, chasing the tour leader, just walking around looking at maps, or waiting in line to get into one of the Taverns.  And then the photographers; always in the way messing up my images.

 Every year Colonial Williamsburg decorates for Christmas.  Competitions for awards enhance the originality and variety of the wreaths, not two are alike even if placed in the windows and doors of the same building.  In the 1970’s I used to go there and photograph the doors and made Christmas Cards with them…it was fun.  This alone is worth a visit and the best time is the week before Christmas when visitors are not numerous and parking spaces can be found.

 There also window decorations just as elaborate as those in the doors.  I should mention that these wreaths are all made with “organic materials” but do not know if they are from GMO certified farms.  Yes, the fruits, grasses and greens are real.  Lots of  expense and work has gone into fabricating these decorations.

 The enactors do add a special touch to the place.  They are all dressed in the attires of the 17th-18th centuries and speak in the slang of the time (wonder how they know how people sounded back them).  They just don’t talk but work as if they were really back in history…they will discuss issues related to the period but if you ask about events that occurred after their historical period, they would say they have no knowledge of such subjects.  It is worthwhile spending sometime visiting them, they are patient, courteous and really knowledgeable about the time period they represent.

 Time to move on, this is a “must visit place” thanks to the vision of John D, Rockefeller Jr and his wife Aldrich, whose interest and support preserved this historical town.  If you are short of time, an hour walk up and down the Duke of Gloucester Street will provide most of that is worth seen.

Friday, December 5, 2014

Thanksgivings in New York

 There is so much to New York City that a lifetime can be spend there and never get to know the city.  Taking a walk in the cemeteries revealed historical personalities that I never knew were sleeping in this city.  What a surprise of encountering the burial place of John James Audubon, who had done more for the promotion of wildlife through his paintings than any other conservationist.  Yet, he killed lots of birds and then brought them back to live in the canvases that he painted.  Curiously the bird carved above him in the monument is a vulture, what revenge.  I found him in the Church of the Intercession at 155th Street and Broadway.

 This Church was originally part of Trinity Church in Lower Manhattan and when they ran out of burial space there, they opened the Trinity Cemetery and Mausoleum across Broadway and bound at the opposite end by the Hudson River.  Here some of the socialites from the Big Apple are buried such as the Astors, Gallatins and others.  There are modern square mausoleums where the late comers are buried; real estate is expensive here too. One could spend hours looking at the names and then searching Wikipedia so figure out who they were.

 Nearby is the Jumel Terrace Historic District where a wooden row of houses are located in Sylvan Terrace.  These were built in the late 1890’s and went through a time of neglect but were renovated recently.  House # 18 (in one of the images) was sold in 2003 for $10 and is now for sale for about $1,000,000.  Nearby is the Norris-Jume Mansion that was used by George Washington as its headquarters in 1776 during the American Revolution; I was not able to visit it because is undergoing renovation.  What is peculiar about this Mansion is that the white walls are made of square timbers but look as made of cement.

 Moving down to Brooklyn one encounters the living; this is an area undergoing gentrification although it has a way to go.  Most buildings are still from late XIX century vintage with a few new ones such as the Thaddeus School for gifted students.  I walked up Stuyvesant Avenue to catch the train at the Myrtle Subway Station.  In the way there I ran into the first graffiti at the Liberty Tax business where the creature appears to be eating the trash.  Going up the stairs to the elevated platform was surprised to see the colored glass window in perfect conditions; appreciate the vandals that appreciate art and did not destroy it.  While in the platform I took a few shots of the city landscape.

 Boarded the subway and got off the subway in the Bowery where I found a flood of people, since it was Black Friday, the streets were congested and most incredibly, it took inquiring at 7 restaurants until I found a Brazilian one that had a table in the back…here I downed crafted beers and a Brazilian sausage sandwich.  I continued roaming the streets capturing the impromptu works of arts and weathered posters that caught my eye. I wonder how that bicycle is still there or the flowers all not gone?

 It got dark and about to lose the light, just time for a few shots; it is time to go home.  New York offers great photo opportunities, no wonder B&H, the paradise of photographers is here.  My motto about this city is:  “If you do not find it here, it is not made”.